The Majestic Jawahar Niwas: The Architecture of Music

7.9.2017, End of Day 2, Jaisalmer, 10:26 pm

The hot sultry, Jaisalmer sun glared at us as we climbed the steps of the great 150 year old Jawahar Niwas, a sprawling mansion located close to Jaisalmer fort, offering a spending view of the fort in all its glory. The mansion, is a classic example of traditional Rajasthani Architecture, and has been converted to a hotel. For a second, the professor inside me, almost forgot that we are actually here for music documentation and not architectural documentation. I couldn't help but admire the old arches, the vintage furniture, and the truly "royal" feel of the place. Teaching History of Architecture for several semesters now has changed my perspective of looking at buildings. 

The golden sun, and the backdrop of the majestic Jaisalmer fort only beckoned me more and more to look at each intricate detail of the palace. The setting sun added to the beauty and the grandeur of the place. I had a hard time convincing myself that i have to actually work. :) 

However, as we prepared our setup for the song recordings, we interviewed Champe Khan, another folk artist from the Manganiyar community of Rajasthan. The Manganiar or Manghanhar and related Langha are Muslim communities in Sindh, Pakistan and in the desert of Rajasthan, India in the districts of Barmer and Jaisalmer, along the border of Sindh province of Pakistan. Majority of Manghanhar are found in the districts of Tharparkar, Sanghar, Mirpur Khas, Tando Allahyar, Hyderabad, Badin, Sujawal, Thatta, Jamshoro in Sindh Pakistan. They are famous for their classical folk music. They are the groups of hereditary professional musicians, whose music has been supported by wealthy landlords and aristocrats for generations.

Champe Khan is 38 and lives in the famous ‘Kalakaar colony” of Jaisalmer, and music has been providing his family livelihood since generations. When asked if the music is enough to sustain, Champe Khan said:

“Khuda uthaata khaali pet hai, par sulaata nahi”

(God wakes you up hungry, but he makes sure that you never sleep hungry)

The second day was full of experiences that I will never forget during my lifetime. To be this close to music is like a dream come true! And to actually carry-on a conversation with someone who is music and melody personified, and an epitome of classical folk music, took me to another world.

Here I am, perched like an albatross,

Stuck to the melody and the rhythm of this medieval city.

Champe Khan and his group lost themselves in a trance, and so did we, with their enchanting music in a mesmerizing locale, on the terrace of Jawahar Niwas. Their songs are mostly sung for various auspicious occasions like marriage and childbirth. Although there is one particular song which touched my soul, the lyrics are quite simple, yet, it appeals to you. Isn’t each one of us love-struck ? Waiting for their beloved to come back to them ? Each one of us has loved and lost.

“Love is not love, which alters when it alteration finds”

But such alteration is inevitable when it comes to love and relationships. Champe Khan’s songs combine love with the skill of music, and the result is a masterpiece.

“Gori johe baat, Saajan likhliyo kore kaagaz ve,

Baachun ghadi ghadi”

I wait for my beloved, I write his name on a blank paper, and I stare at that paper endlessly .

Simple, yet profound. 

According to Champe Khan, folk music appeals to everyone and has a power, yet some people don’t understand the power of folk music. Champe Khan, has travelled to various countries like Spain, Holland, Belgium, London and is all set to go to Australia for his next venture. Champe Khan, at times is faced with situations when people request popular folk songs, which have become a part of mainstream music, all thanks to bollywood. Even though, he feels a little dejected at times, music never dies, and it shouldn't, and the whole purpose of music, as he says, is to make people happy.

As I understand the livelihoods and culture of these people, I am immersing myself in a land of love, skill, ruins, and power. The power of music. I can’t wait to wake up the next morning, get onto work, and write pages and pages about my experience.

But, here I end this post because of an early 6am schedule for tomorrow. Before I crash for the day, I will like to share what Champe Khan has to say about music.

“Sangeet ek ibaadat hai, yeh dil se nikalta hai”

                                    Music is a form of worship, which transcends from heart.

Good night.